1. Field of the Invention
This application relates to a makeup composition including a water in silicone emulsion containing hydroxyacids, such as alpha hydroxyacids, beta hydroxyacids and/or polyhydroxyacids. The makeup composition, when applied topically to the skin, provides beneficial effects to the skin such as (i) reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles, (ii) protecting the skin from the harmful effects of the ultraviolet light from the sun, (iii) moisturizing and soothing the skin, and (iv) making the skin attractively colored. This application also relates to methods of topical treatment of the skin to effect such benefits.
2. Description of the Prior Art
Human skin is comprised of two principal components, the outer epidermis and the underlying dermis, which is situated above the subcutaneous adipose or fat tissues. The epidermis consists of four distinct layers: stratum corneum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale; in the skin of palms and soles only, there is normally one additional zone called the stratum lucidum between the stratum corneum and the stratum granulosum.
The stratum corneum or horny layer is comprised of numerous flattened dead cells called corneocytes. The granular layer, located below the stratum corneum, contains large granules of keratinous materials. The spinous layer or prickle cell layer is located below the granular layer and composed of keratinocytes. The basal cell layer, located below the spinous layer but above the dermis, is the only principal layer in the epidermis in which living cells normally replicate DNA and divide into daughter cells.
After a basal cell divides, one of the daughter cells migrates into the spinous layer where the cell starts to differentiate as a keratinocyte, wherein synthesis of keratin is initiated. As the keratinocyte continues to move outward and reaches the granular layer, more keratinous materials are synthesized as keratin filaments and large granules. The keratinocyte loses its nucleus in transit through the granular layer and thereupon dies to become a corneocyte without nucleus in the stratum corneum.
Normally, the granular layer is a few cell layers in thickness, and the stratum corneum may be 14-25 cell layers thick. Under normal conditions and in most skin areas, a keratinocyte takes 14 days to move outward from the basal cell layer to the granular layer, and a corneocyte takes 14 days to reach the outermost layer of the stratum corneum to be shed; the total time from basal cell layer to the surface is approximately 28 days. The entire sequence of epidermal terminal differentiation is called keratinization.
The dermis is comprised mainly of collagen, elastic fibers, glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans including hyaluronic acid, dermatan sulfate and chondroitin sulfate formerly known as mucopolysaccharides. Fibroblasts, the predominant cells of the dermis, synthesize collagen, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans. Collagen makes up approximately 77%, elastic fibers account for about 2%, and glycosaminoglycans constitute around 0.2% of the dry weight of the dermis. Collagen provides the tensile strength of and elastic fibers give resilience to the dermis. The glycosaminoglycans binds water to form a gelatinous mass between collagen and elastic fibers, which acts as a lubricant and shock absorber for the dermis during movement of the skin.
Several factors affect human skin and result cutaneous aging to form wrinkles, sagging and loss of firmness and elasticity. These factors include internal factors and external factors. Cutaneous aging, while having epidermal concomitants, seems to involve primarily dermal and subcutaneous changes, and is caused by (a) internal factors alone, as in intrinsic aging and (b) external factors, as in extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging also is known as natural or chronologic aging, and extrinsic aging often is called photoaging. "Photodamage" implies skin damage caused by chronic sun exposure. These terms may be described as follows.
Intrinsic aging of skin, in sun-protected skin of the upper arm and abdomen, is an inherent degenerative process that occurs in all humans and is due to declining physiologic functions and capacities. This degenerative process may include qualitative and quantitative skin changes and also includes diminished or defective synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers, and proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans in the dermis. Signs of intrinsic aging include progressive thinning of skin, deepening of skin lines and fine wrinkles, lusterless skin surface, and loss of skin elasticity and recoilability. Although intrinsic aging of living creatures is neither reversible nor preventable, modification and improvement of skin signs associated with such aging process can be achieved through topical management.
Extrinsic aging of skin is a distinctive process caused by external factors which include sunlight, radiation, air pollution, wind, cold, dampness, heat, chemicals, smoke and cigarette smoking. Photoaging of skin may be defined as destructive cutaneous changes caused by chronic exposure to sunlight. Signs of photoaging on the face and back of hands include coarse and deepened wrinkles due to changes and degeneration of collagen and elastic fibers; marked loss of elasticity and recoilability; leathery skin surface and skin lesions with abnormal pigmentation and increased numbers of age spots, pigmented spots, blotches and nodules. Histologically, the qualities and quantities of elastin and collagen tissues are changed. Normal elastin in tissues is replaced by abnormal elastin characterized as solar elastosis, and the normal collagen fibers are decreased.
Photodamage of skin, also called solar damage, may be defined as cutaneous damage caused by chronic exposure to solar radiation and is associated with development of neoplastic lesions. Skin disorders caused by photodamage include pre-malignant lesions, basal cell carcinomas, squamous cell carcinomas and malignant melanomas.
There are numerous products available today that report to ameliorate some of the signs of cutaneous aging. For example, there are a number of sunscreen patents related to treating aging skin. U.S. Pat. No. 5,093,109 describes the use of titanium dioxide as a sunscreen which also contains antioxidants, emulsifiers, thickeners and colorants. U.S. Pat. No. 5,204,105 describes the use of plant and yeast extracts, vitamins E & C to improve elasticity, the use of silicones to improve firmness and the use of sunscreens to protect the skin from the sun. A number of cosmetic compositions are known that contain titanium dioxide either alone, or in combination with a silicone compound for various uses. See, U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,801,445, 4,820,508, 5,032,390 and 5,250,289.
Other known compositions containing sunscreens together with free radical scavengers are described in, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 5,093,109. These compositions, however, generally are oil in water emulsions containing ascorbyl palmitate, which rapidly falls apart in such an emulsion. U.S. Pat. No. 5,560,917 describes a composition containing a sunscreen agent, a free radical scavenger and a cosmetically acceptable pigment.
There also are numerous descriptions in the literature of the use of alpha hydroxyacids and polyhydroxyacids for treating various skin disorders. U.S. Pat. No. 3,879,537 describes the use of topical compositions containing an alpha hydroxyacid to alleviate the symptoms of ichthyosis. U.S. Pat. No. 3,920,835 describes the use of topical compositions containing an alpha hydroxyacid to alleviate the symptoms of acne. U.S. Pat. No. 3,984,566 describes the use of topical compositions containing an alpha hydroxyacid to improve the symptoms of dandruff.
Other document, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,105,783, 4,197,316 and 4,380,549 describe the use of topical compositions containing an alpha hydroxyacid to alleviate or improve the symptoms of dry skin. In addition, U.S. Pat. No. 4,234,599 describes the use of topical compositions containing an alpha hydroxyacid to alleviate the symptoms of actinic or nonactinic skin keratoses. Moreover, U.S. Pat. No. 4,363,815 describes the use of topical compositions containing certain alpha hydroxyacids to improve skin conditions characterized by inflammation or disturbed keratinization.
Recently issued U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,385,938 and 5,389,677 describe the use of compositions containing glycolic acid for topical treatment of skin wrinkles. Albert M. Kligman also described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,877,805 that photoaging or sun damaged skin includes loss of collagen fibers, abnormal changes in elastic fibers and deterioration of small blood vessels in the dermis of the skin. The dermal components which make up the fibers of the dermis become smaller and sparser with increasing age, usually in sundamaged facial skin. There is a great loss of collagen fibers resulting in looseness and easy stretchability of the skin; elastic fibers become abnormal so that the skin does not promptly snap back after being stretched. Kligman disclosed the use of retin-A to treat photoaged or sundamaged skin.
These known compositions, are not always effective against the external effects of sunlight and the internal effects caused by intrinsic aging.